I've just returned from a visit to the Leipzig Bachfest (7-17 June). As usual there is lots to hear, to see and changes to note. The city is currently a mish-mash of architectural styles, an uneasy mix of the old, Stalinist and faceless and the very latest in chic and style. In amongst all of this are the sites we associate with Bach's lifetime, tall, solid and dependable - the Nikolaikirche in Nikolaistrasse just off the shopping arcades in the Grimmastrasse and the Thomaskirche in Thomaskirchhof off the Markt Platz and near to the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall). There is a profusion of cafés and eating places all around, to such an extent now that some of the famous monuments could go completely unnoticed - Goethe now has to look down upon a column of outdoor cafés for example and unless you know where to look, could be completely missed by the culture-vulture doing the grand tour of the city centre! Stark contrast indeed to the days of the old GDR.

However the city is not so much a building site for the sake of it, but more of one that is saying to the world "we are looking forward, inspired and encouraged by our cultural heritage". How this will all pan out remains to be seen. Only when the generations born after the fall of the GDR in 1989, or with no recollection of what life was like during those years, will the true character of the city emerge.

After 'the change' the citizens of Leipzig were consulted as to how they wanted their city to be repaired, rebuilt and represented. The 'Paulinerverein' was set up to ensure that the city wrote into its plans the restoration of the famous Leipzig University Church that was razed to the ground by the authorities in 1968 to make way for a new science block. After much lobbying and fund-raising to garner support for the idea, eventually the Saxony State Government in Dresden granted the funds to rebuild with the aim of completion by 2009, the 600th anniversary of the University's foundation. Unalloyed joy soon turned to deep despair when descent emerged and the plan was dropped....I believe a church will be built, but not a recreation of the original historic Paulinerkirche, where Bach's Cantata BWV 198 (Trauerode) was first performed in October 1727, and where Schumann, Brahms and Mendelssohn all conducted. Is this an example of any conflict of opinion that exists as to how the future should be shaped, I wonder?
MS

For ten days from tomorrow, the city of Leipzig will be buzzing with activity. The cafés will be full, flowers blooming and Festival bunting everywhere. It is the time of the Leipzig Bachfest. From 7-17 June there will be another feast of events this time around the theme 'From Monteverdi to Bach' and I will be attending the Festival from 13-17 June. The series not only includes some mouth-watering concerts and recitals, but brings together a variety of personalities from the Bach world globally. So it is time to re-kindle old friendships and for me, catch up with what's happening so that I can bring some of what I find back to London and to our Bachfest.

LBS first visited Bach's city of Leipzig in 1964, and a far-cry from the bustling, modern cultural centre of the post-communist era. LBS was the first cultural organisation to 'cross the Berlin Wall' and then made a return visit in 1983 for a British Council supported tour as part of the Martin Luther Year celebrations, with a Mass in B minor in Thomaskirche the highlight. Paul conducted our original choir and our existing orchestra, Steinitz Bach Players, in complete awe of the surroundings and greatly moved by the attentive audience, among whom (and unknown to us at the time) was a young music student destined later to become Thomaskantor and one of my kindred musical friends, Prof. Georg Christoph Biller.

In 1994, LBS hosted the first ever visit to the UK by the world-famous Thomanerchor Leipzig, directed by Prof. Biller. Bach held the post of Thomaskantor from 1723-1750 and composed most of his church music for the set of possibly unruly boys he had in his choir. Years later, we in LBS can testify to the professionalism of today's choir of 9-18 year old singers who joined us in London last November for our 60th anniversary celebrations.

All the famous locations associated with Bach are close by and will be the main venues used for the 2007 Leipzig Bachfest. With the festival series moved to the early summer month of June, there is an opportunity to see and enjoy them in warm sunshine - the last time I saw BBC weather for Leipzig the temps were approaching the 90 degree mark! There is a real sens of the Bach presence in the Thomaskirche where his remains are buried in the Chancel.

A few minutes' walk away there is also the historic Nikolaikirche where Bach's Johannes-Passion was first performed in 1724. I immediately recall that years later in 1989, the Nikolaikirche was a sanctuary where modern-day revolutionaries met to plan the eventual downfall of the distasteful communist regime in East Germany (DDR). What has arisen from that era is a city reborn, drawing upon its rich cultural heritage to welcome us.

More blogs to follow....
Margaret Steinitz